Mount Russell

14086' / 4294 m

Though several hundred feet lower than Mount Whitney, Mount Russell offers a much more challenging ascent. Pioneered by the legendary Norman Clyde in June 1926, the East Ridge of Mount Russell features excellent views and sometimes intimidating exposure on a half-mile scramble. The exposure causes many parties to turn back before summitting, but the climbing is easy (Class III), the rock quality is generally excellent, and the routefinding is straightforward.

My first attempt to climb Russell, made one October just after an early snow, was unsuccessful. The exposure, snow and verglas on the ridgeline, and most of all inexperience on my part caused me to turn back a few hundred feet below the peak. The experience convinced me to learn more about technical rock climbing and general mountaineering. Armed with this additional knowledge and experience I've found the climb much more enjoyable, and have since summitted Russell twice, both as 12.5 hour day hikes from Whitney Portal.

Photos

Most of these shots were taken on a climb I made with Chuck Danache on September 20, 1998. We enjoyed cool but exceptionally fine weather.

Click on any of the following images for an expanded view.

An early start is key to climbing Russell in a day. Having started our hike at 04:30, we're far above Lower Boy Scout Lake (left center) when the sun rises over the Inyo Range.

Not far below Upper Boy Scout Lake, the rising sun bathes the Whitney group in alpenglow.
A little higher up, the only unpleasant aspect of the climb comes into view - a long, trashy slog up a gravel and sand-filled chute. The clean granite spires of Mt. Russell are visible to the left.

Chuck Danache takes a breather during the long climb up the sandy gully. This is the most grueling part of the climb, as you often lose traction on the sand and loose rocks, wasting precious energy.

Climbing higher up the gully one is rewarded with ever-improving views of Mount Whitney. Whitney is so close you can easily see, and often hear, people standing on its summit.

Finally out of the gully, the south and southeast aspects of Russell are fully visible. The easiest way to the top is via the East Ridge, past a series of false summits.

Here's the payoff for all that slogging - a spectacular scramble up Russell's East Ridge. The summit is the second to last peak from the right.

Tulainyo Lake highlights the view to the east.

The scramble starts with a blocky, narrowing ridge. The first of a series of false summits is visible above.

Further along, the shield-like North Face comes into view.

There was always a safe passage and there were always enough protrubences and crevices to afford secure handholds and footholds. Now and then I came to a gash in the ridge through which I looked with a thrill down vertical cliffs, hundreds of feet in height, to the basin below, and beyond to the flanks of Mount Whitney.
Norman Clyde, describing his 1926 ascent of the East Ridge

After reaching the end of a ledge, a short scramble brought me to the eastern summit of the mountain. There, a knife-edge extends a few hundred yards to the western peak, which is apparently the higher. The whole summit, in fact, is nothing more than a knife-edge with a high point at either end. Picking my way along the crest, or along shelves a short distance below it, I advanced to the western eminence...

Finally on the summit, 7.5 hours after starting the hike.

The views just don't get much better. Lone Pine Peak is below, to the east, while Mount Whitney dominates the skyline to the south.

Over 5700' (1700 m) of elevation must be shed on the return to the Portal. Fortunately the sand gully is a lot more fun to descend than it is to climb!

For more information:

Books:: California Fourteeners Porcella & Burns: Guide to the easiest routes on all the 14ers.; Climbing California's Fourteeners Porcella & Burns: A greatly expanded version of the previous guide, with multiple routes and lots of historical information.
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This document was last updated on Wednesday, September 23, 1998