Safe Flea Control
It’s flea season, and it will be a challenge to keep fleas from driving you and your dogs crazy. We have learned what not to do through much trial and error. We consulted our veterinarian (at the time) about dealing with it and he sold us a pile of flea control products including flea dip, a flea collar and flea bomb for the house and yard.

We started out with the flea dip. After reading the directions, which included me wearing protective clothing and gloves, I thought if it was that dangerous for me to be exposed, what was it doing to my dog? I went ahead and measured the dip concentrate into a plastic cup used for cold medicines, while I spent a few minutes looking for a container in which to mix the dip—the plastic cup melted! That was the last time we considered using a flea dip.

I read every article I could find on flea control, tried a few and decided to stick with those I found worked best for me.

Three Steps to Flea Control
Any good dog shampoo will kill fleas, you don’t need chemicals. First, soak the dog in water, lather with shampoo, let the dog soak for ten minutes and repeat.

Second, use a flea bomb in your house and garage. If you have an aquarium or birds and can’t use a flea bomb, try a powder such as The Exterminator so you can control distribution. If you can buy it, get a powder such as diatomaceous earth from your local nursery. It can be dusted—carefully—in your home and around the dog beds without harm to the dog or you.

Diatomaceous earth is a natural remedy made up of the skeletons of microscopic sea creatures. It works by actually abrading the flea’s outer skin, killing it without poisons. Boric acid is another natural remedy that may be used in your home without worry. It acts by drying out the flea’s outer skin. You may use either of these outside, but remember that they will have to be renewed each time it rains.

You can give your pet a flea bath and momentarily have a flea-free dog; but if you have a house and yard infested with fleas, eggs, larvae and pupae, 95% of the problem will still be with you.

Third, spray your yard with a flea spray. The safest are nematodes you can spray in your yard with an applicator similar to that used by Miracle Grow fertilizer. Nematodes eat flea larvae and are nontoxic, and kids and dogs can use the yard immediately after application. The directions claim that up to 90% of the larvae are eaten within the first 24 hours after application. I have found that it works pretty well. The hardest thing about using nematodes is that it can clog your sprayer if you don’t keep the mixture constantly agitated. Do not use other products at the same time. They can kill the nematodes.

If you don’t use nematodes, another good product for long-term results is Torus. It is available at your local Solutions store. One application will work for about 3 months. Use it in conjunction with whatever other quick-acting chemical insecticide you may choose. This gives you the advantage with what is known as the "quick knock-down" method with long-term residual effects. Follow directions carefully.

If you invest in Program or Advantage, they will kill new eggs laid by fleas already on your dog, but you will still have fleas in your environment, and newcomers can bite your dog before being affected and dying. Whenever your dog leaves your house and returns, he can have new fleas from outside which can infest your house. However, if you use any of the above methods of flea control, you should have good results and minor flea problems.

(Note: Program is now available at retail stores without a prescription, check prices and save money. Advantage works differently than Program. Some people use both. Check with your veterinarian.)

Return to Index of Training Articles

Copyright © 1999, 2000, 2001
H.O.T. Dog Club
All rights reserved
Revised: July 24, 2001