The Daytripper's (Non-definitive) Top Rope Guide to Joshua Tree
Got just a day to climb? Less than a full rack? Don't feel like leading? Want to
introduce a friend to climbing? This will steer you to some quality, fun climbs that
are easy to get to and easy to set up. There are enough routes in here to occupy you
for several days.
This is NOT intended to be a comprehensive listing of all top roping in the Park,
but a sampling for the short term visitor. Further descriptions, area maps and topos can
be found in other, more complete
guide books.
This is a modest supplement to those excellent references.
Sports Challenge Rock, Real Hidden Valley
|
Go up the south end of the rock to set up all of these climbs.
|
| East Face |
| Route |
Type |
Set-Up |
| Clean & Jerk, 10c |
O/C |
1-3" pcs; 12 ft. ext. |
| Leave It To Beaver, 12a |
O/C |
1-2" pcs; sling to boulder 20 feet back |
| West Face |
| Route |
Type |
Set-Up |
| Sphincter Quits, 10a |
C |
2 1/2-4" pcs; 5-7 ft. ext. |
| What's It To You, 10d |
F, C |
(same) |
| Rap Bolters Are Weak, 11d |
F |
2 bolts, 2 ft. ext. |
| Eddie Haskell Takes Manhattan, 10c |
F |
(top belay suggested) |
Thin Wall, Real Hidden Valley
|
Hike up the south end of the rock to reach the set-ups.
|
| Route |
Type |
Set-Up |
| Congratulations, 11a |
F, O |
3 bolts; 5 ft. ext. |
| Child's Play, 10d |
F, O |
(same) |
| No Calculators Allowed, 10a |
C |
3 bolts; 3-5 ft. ext. |
| Count On Your Fingers, 9 |
C |
2 bolts; 2-4" pcs; 3-5 ft. ext. |
| Peculiar Taste Buds, 8 |
C |
1-3" pcs; 10 ft. ext. |
Echo Cove (south), Central Joshua Tree
|
To set up the first two climbs, go up the gully on the south side
of the east end of the formation. For the rest, walk up the sloping
west end of the formation.
|
| Route |
Type |
Set-Up |
| Halfway To Paradise, 10a |
F |
11/2-3" pcs; 3-4 ft. ext. |
| Effigy Too, 9 |
C |
11/2-4" pcs; 6-10 ft. ext. |
| Boulder Dash, 9 |
F, C |
1-31/2" pcs; 4-6 ft. ext. |
| Big Moe, 11b |
F |
2 bolts; 2 ft. ext. |
| Larry, 11a |
F |
3-4" cams; 10 ft. ext. |
| Curly, 11a/b |
F |
(same) |
Echo Cove (north), Central Joshua Tree
|
To set up the first three routes, go up a gully between W.A.C. and
R.A.F. For Solo Dog, go up over boulders to reach a gully on the
back side of the route.
|
| Route |
Type |
Set-Up |
| Sound Of One Shoe Tapping, 8 |
F |
2 bolts; 2-4 ft. ext. |
| W.A.C., 8 |
F |
(same) |
| R.A.F., 9 |
F |
1-3" pcs; 5 ft. ext. |
| Solo Dog, 11b |
F |
2 bolts; 4 ft. ext. |
Cap Rock, Central Joshua Tree
|
Take the gully left of "Catch a Falling Star", and go up and
right to the top of the rock. All bolts are within easy reach.
|
| Route |
Type |
Set-Up |
| Catch A Falling Star, 8 |
C, F |
Bolts; 8-10 ft. ext. |
| Nobody Walks In LA, 8 |
F |
(same) |
| Catch A Falling Car, 10c |
F |
(same) |
| Event Horizon, 10b |
C, F |
Bolts; 8-10 ft. ext. |
Hall of Horrors (West Wall, West Face), Central Joshua Tree
|
Walk up the north end of the formation to these two separate anchors.
|
| Route |
Type |
Set-Up |
| Buckets To Burbank, 8 |
F |
Bolts; 4 ft. ext. |
| Pull-Ups To Pasadena, 10c |
F |
(same) |
Hall of Horrors (West Rock, East Face), Central Joshua Tree
|
Get to "Jane's" set-up by going around left of the route and up to the top.
For "Yvonne", walk up the right side of the rock, right of the route.
|
| Route |
Type |
Set-Up |
| Jane's Addiction, 11b |
F |
Bolts; 3 ft. ext. |
| Avant Yvonne, 11a |
F |
Bolts; 4-5 ft. ext. |
Pixie Rock, Indian Cove
|
At the back side of the formation is a wandering but safe way up to the top.
|
| Route |
Type |
Set-Up |
| Vaino's Lost In Pot, 7 |
F, C |
3-4" pcs; 20 ft. ext. |
| Who's First, 6 |
F, C |
2-4" pcs; 20 ft. ext. |
| Rhythm Of The Heart, 8 |
F |
(same) |
Feudal Wall, Indian Cove
|
Go up a gully 30 feet to the left (west) of Duchess, then cross
back over right to the top of the route.
|
| Route |
Type |
Set-Up |
| Duchess, 6 |
C |
1 1/2- 2 1/2"
pcs; 6 ft. ext. |
| Duchess Right, 7 |
C |
(same) |
Short Wall, Indian Cove
|
The far right (east) end of this wall contains about ten routes,
most of them moderate (5.4 to 5.8) and all rather close together.
Two or three anchors get you nearly all of the routes, which are
mixed crack and face. This crag is very popular, so get there
early!
Walk up the back side of the rock. Anchors take 2 1/2-4"
pieces and 30 ft. extensions.
|
Notes
Types of climbs:
- F: Face
- C: Crack
- O: Overhang
- O/F: Overhanging face
- F, O: Face to overhang
- F, C: Face to crack
- etc...
Set-Ups:
- Bolts: Obvious
- Pcs.: Pieces. A size range is suggested, in inches. You decide between camming
devices and nuts.
- Extension: refers to how far back from the top edge of the climb the gear
might be placed. Measurements are given in feet.
The above information was compiled and generously provided by
9-year JT local and climbing instructor Jules George. Check out her website
at
This document was last updated on
Friday, August 14, 1998
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