METAL FINISHES By David W. Wilson North Texas Blacksmiths Association Simple finishes may be created from common household materials. These combinations are low in toxicity and easy to apply. However, please remember - safety first! Use safety glasses, gloves and hearing protection when necessary. STEEL Oil and Wax - Most of these applications are done at a black heat except where noted. A black heat is hot enough to burn skin, but not too hot (red) to vaporize the finish on contact. Scaling of the surface will help in the application of oils and waxes. In other words, do not remove the scale with a wire brush, then apply these finishes. Polyurethane is an effective finish with or without scale if the application is done quickly after forging, not allowing rusting to begin. A. Oil - Any oil may be applied to steel with the exception of used crankcase type oils. It is not safe to inhale the fumes of this used oil. 1. For non-kitchen use items - Aerosol applied lubricants such as WD-40 may be sprayed on at a low black heat. Another finish is simply three parts Linseed oil to one part Turpentine. Apply by wiping on with a rag at a black heat. This finish will run into areas due to the thinning affect of Turpentine. It is VERY FLAMMABLE and should be used with caution. Linseed Oil/Turpentine will feel sticky and need ample time to harden, sometimes a day. 2. Kitchen use items - Peanut Oil or any cooking oil such as Vegetable and Olive Oils are non-toxic and provide excellent finishes. Bacon grease is another good finish but may eventually turn rancid if not stored in a freezer. B. Wax - A tried and true application of Beeswax at a black heat is an effective rust preventative. This material is also very flammable. Other good waxes are Floor Wax and Johnsons Paste Wax. Wipe off excess with a rag after application. C. Combinations of Oil and Wax - One of Francis Whitaker's finishes consisted of equal parts of Linseed Oil, Turpentine and Beeswax. This combination is applied at a black heat with a rag and the excess is wiped off. The finish appears as a satiny surface, revealing a lustrous look. One additional ingredient, graphite may be added to achieve the opposite appearance, a dull gray. Graphite gives a matte-like look of freshly forged iron. Other wax's work well with oil, such as Johnsons Paste Wax that may be used as a substitute of Beeswax. D. Polyurethane is an effective rust preventative that blackens the iron with scale. It will also work on steel that has been descaled. Applications are on cold iron with spray or brush. Do not apply over a wax. E. Rust, although a natural state of ferrous metals, may be quickly achieved with bleach. Neutralize with baking soda. F. Scale removal - Vinegar will slowly remove scale, sometimes taking a day or so to be effective. Immerse the iron in household vinegar or place in a plastic bag. Brush frequently to remove the softened scale. Neutralize with Baking Soda. NON FERROUS A. Copper - A beautiful patina with a rainbow affect can be easily accomplished. This includes numerous colors and may be achieved with a combination of Vinegar and Hydrogen Peroxide. One good proportion is 3 parts Vinegar to 1 part Hydrogen Peroxide. The patina's success is very dependent on weather conditions, the warmth of the solution and metal. The solution may be warmed before application since many patina solutions are more effective if applied warm. Copper must be clean. Scrubbing with fine 000 steel wool and rinse with warm soapy water will help remove the surface grease. Apply the solution with a brush or by immersing the copper. Irregular shaped Copper pieces may also be inserted in a plastic bag with the finish. Do not apply another finish on top of this patina, such as polyeurethane, it will destroy the colors. B. Brass - Ammonia soaked sawdust placed in an enclosed box will produce a beautiful blue/green patina on brass. The brass must be cleaned of surface grease before inserted in the sawdust. Brass can be cleaned with the same method as copper. PLATING Although not technically a finish, plating will give a very unique appearance. This is easily done cold and very inexpensive. Materials needed are a clean steel work piece, a small section of a non ferrous metal (copper brass, or aluminum), an angle grinder with wire brush, and a sturdy vise. Care should be taken with the high speed angle grinder and clamping of work pieces. Safety goggles and hearing protection are required. Start by securely clamping the non ferrous metal such as copper to the left side of the steel work piece. These should be level, on the same plane. Use the angle grinder with wire brush to drag the softer copper onto the steel work piece. It will coat the steel with a thin layer of copper. The clockwise rotation of the angle grinder causes the softer metal copper on the left to coat the steel on the right side. A patina of colors may appear on the copper plating due to heating from friction of the wire brush. Copper, brass and aluminum can be plated adjacent to each other by covering a previously plated area. A photo and similar description of this plating proceedure is at http://www.flash.net/~dwwilson/ntba/archive/plate.html