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Copper Tulip
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This tulip is planished from .032" (20 gauge) copper. The end of a fireplace poker handle will work well as a stake. A smooth face planishing hammer will not leave unwanted marks on copper. To make the copper easier to work, frequently anneal it, especially after hammering. To anneal, simply heat with propane torch to dark red and quench. The PETAL Patterns are designed to conserve material. Individual petals may also be created, however the inner petals should be slightly smaller. A stem may be made from 1/4" round stock. Use oxyactelene torch to weld a nut on the stem for shoulder (at base of petals). Heat and hammer the hex nut to a round shape. Inside the petals, a threaded end with nut on the stem will allow easy repositioning and removal of the petals. Peening over the stem onto the petals will also work. Put a slight curve in the stem to add a realistic look. The leaves are made from 22 gauge sheet steel. Fold the LEAF Pattern in half and open half way. This creates a center vein for the leaf. Ridges are made by heating with propane torch and bending with smooth needle nose pliers. File or snip the tips so they are not sharp. Wrap the base of the top most leaf onto the stem first.Then wrap the lower leaf base around the upper one. Note: the lower leaf has a longer base to hide the upper leafs base. | |||
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To make a ridge on the center of the petals, use copper wire. Wrap the wire around a round surface, lay the petal on the wire, outside up. Hammer with dead blow hammer to raise ridge. Drill 1/4" holes in the copper PETAL Pattern. Place the larger, outer petals on the stem first, then the inner ones. Screw nut onto the end of the stem, stagger petals as shown and tighten nut with socket wrench. A simple base may be made by drilling wood with 1/4" holes and inserting stem. | |||