Machine Knitters Source: Finishing Techniques
(Issue #85)

Cut & Sew Lacy Knits for Summer

by Manon Salois

Cutting and sewing into regular knit fabrics is still a challenge to most knitters, so how about lace, tuck lace, punch lace or any of those airy knits for summer cools? Would you dare to try? Well, guess what? It has been done! With a little more care and adding an extra step to the haute couture of cut and sew method, I will demonstrate how easily it can be accomplished.

First, I wish to credit this version of the cut and sew technique into lacy knit fabric to Lorraine, my assistant, whom at the time was a student. We had discussed the possibilities of cutting and sewing into a lace fabric during class and without any delay, she went home and attempted a series of samples. Like many knitters, she was concerned about the “holey” parts of the lace fabric and what kind of a mess the sewing machine might create. With her intense determination and many samples, she successfully improved and perfected the techniques of cut and sew on lace knit fabric. It is with great pride and Lorraine’s permission that I am able to share this technique with you today.

When planning to cut and sew into a lace knit fabric, two things are required: a roll of bias cut tricot and thread matching the exact color of the garment. The bias cut tricot is about 1/2 inch wide and sold on a roll. It is found in the average sewing store in three basic colors. Black, white and beige, or through the Nancy’s Notions catalog in a variety of colors (Figure 1).

Figure 1 - Supplies needed.

Prepare a lace knit fabric by washing, drying and carefully blocking. Baste the center of the knit piece and pin your paper pattern into place. Using a contrast colored thread, outline the shape of the paper pattern onto the knit piece using a basting stitch (Figure 2). Remove the paper pattern from the knit. Take the bias cut tricot and pin the center of the tape 3 mm (1/16”) on the inside, from the basting. Baste the bias cut tricot into place (Figure 3).

Figure 2

Figure 3 - Basting the tricot in place.

Using a regular stitch length 3-3.5, machine straight stitch in the center of the tape using the matching thread. The bias cut tricot will serve as a filling where the “holey” parts of the lace knit are and stabilize the stitching. Once the straight stitching is completed and the tricot strip is in place, remove all of the basting (Figure 4). Next, finish with either a zig zag stitch or serger, as given in the following directions.

Figure 4 - Tricot is sewn down and neckline

The Zig Zag Finish

Fold the tricot in half onto itself along the stitching line and then lay it down towards the neckline. Using a medium size zig zag stitch and a color of thread that matches the garment (stitch length 1.5-2, stitch width 3-4), sew over all the layers. The zig zag stitch should lay on top of the bias cut tricot. With a sharp pair of scissors, cut as close as you can along the tricot and zig zag edge without cutting into any of the stitching.

The Serged Finish

Fold the tricot in half onto itself along the stitching line and fold toward neck opening. Bring the knife of the serger as close as possible to the tricot. Serge all layers together in a matching color of thread. The serger offers quite a nice finish, since the bias cut tricot is overcast by the overlock stitch (Figure 5).

Figure 5 - The serged edge.

The results are surprisingly pleasant. A clean and sturdy cut and sew wedge that could easily be re-hooked onto the knitting machine if one wanted. In assembling the cut and sew lace knit garment, a 1/4 or 1/2 inch satin ribbon in a matching color can be used to reinforce the shoulder seams and armhole area.

A Summer Trimmed Neckline

When working with the lacy knit fabrics, one should consider more delicate and simplistic finishes around necklines and hem areas. A wider, more open design such as a scoop neck may be a better choice to accent the garment. Finishing touches, such as a simple picot or a few rows of single crochet may be appropriate. Another possibility is some braid at the neckline. Try this neckline for fun!

Note: these calculations are for a sample only, proper calculations would be in order to accomodate a full neckline, (MT = main garment tension).

The upper band: Cast on 60 stitches with waste yarn. Change to main color. Knit 2 rows at (MT+1). Knit 2 rows at X. Knit 2 rows at (MT-1). Knit 1 row at tension 10**.

The braid finish: knit 1 row at MT. Using the crochet cast on method, crochet on every other needle in front of the knitting (this can be done in a different color). Knit 2 rows at MT. Repeat the crochet finish over the same needles. Knit 2 rows at MT. Repeat the crochet finish over the same needles. Knit 1 row at MT. Cast off.

The under band: with the wrong side of the band facing you, the crochet edge to the machine, the waste yarn towards you, pick up the sinker loops from the row at tension 10**. You should have 59 stitches. Knit 2 rows at (MT-1). Knit 1 row at MT one row less for the under side. Knit 2 rows at (MT+1). Cast off loosely wrapping around the sinker post.

This neckline creates a little crochet rolled edge mounted on a small band to sandwich the cut and sew edge of the neckline. The closed edge of the band is sewn with the sewing thread to the wrong side of the garment, while the open edge is finished by hand using the back stitch on the right side of the garment (Figure 6).

Figure 6 - Neckline applied over raw edge

Lace knit fabrics come in a variety of techniques, designs and textures. In a combination of automatic pattern designs and/or hand manipulation, cut and sew offers some relief from the problem of keeping track of your pattern. You can keep your concentration focused on the complexity of the patterning of the lace knit fabric and omit the shaping task while knitting. I encourage knitters to sample this wonderful cut and sew technique in the creation of some wonderful summer lacy knits.

Don’t hesitate to visit our web site at www.salois.com. If you have any requests or any questions you can also send e-mail to manon@salois.com.

Copyright 1998 Machine Knitters Source All Rights Reserved