By Molly Pollock – July 30, 2000

This morning I returned from two intensive weeks of birding in Amazonian Peru with Field Guides. The tour leaders were Bret Whitney and Dave Stejskal. Both Bret and Dave have a vast knowledge of bird vocalizations and frequently attract birds through whistling their calls, in addition to taping. Bret's experience in South America allowed him to provide very detailed information as to the behavior and status and distribution for many species.

The trip started in Iquitos, where we stayed in posh accommodations at the El Dorado motel. Iquitos is a city of half a million people in the heart of Amazonia. While in Iquitos we birded the Allpahuaya-Mishana Reserve, a newly set aside area of relatively pristine white sand forest. This is the home of the Ancient Antwren and other white sand forest specialties. This is the only location where White-winged Potoo is known to occur in Peru. Rufous Potoo shares this habitat as well. On several days at this location, we saw both Paradise Jacamar and Pompadour Cotinga.

We left Iquitos on a "fast" river boat, heading down the Amazon toward Yanamono Lodge. The Lodge is on a creek, just off the Amazon, 2 hours down river. I was struck by the size of the Amazon. Even at this point, thousands of miles from the Atlantic Ocean, it is several miles across. The true distance across is hard to discern because most of the time the other perceived side is an island. Just outside of Iquitos, we landed on a new river island that we named Nueva Santa Margarita. We easily found several island specialities. Our local guide found the nest of a Pied Plover with 2 downy chicks inside it.

The habitat around Yanamono Lodge is primarily terra firma. The forest just behind the Lodge contains one of the thickest forests based on number of tree species contained within a given area. At night, Tropical Screech Owls called from the rafters in our Lodge and we heard Spectacled Owl nearby. From this lodge we took a boat ride to a nearby Island, where we had a five kingfisher day. On the island, I saw my first Horned Screamer and we were all delighted with a Red-and-white Spinetail. Near the Lodge, we saw our first Purple-throated Cotinga. We also viewed several Red-bellied Macaws feeding in some palms.

We left Yanamono Lodge a few days later to head to Aceer, which is on the Napo River. It is quite a sight where the Napo and the Amazon Rivers meet. We made another Island stop in route and pulled in Pearly-breasted Conebill. Further along, we saw an island with 75 or more Sand-colored Nightjars. What a sight! Their wing coloration is more striking to me than that of the Large-billed Tern.

The area around Iquitos and the Lodges we stayed at have been hunted for many years. As a rule, it is difficult to see many large mammals or large birds. This is not the place to go to see macaws, although we did pick up two species. The life is still quite basic. Dugout canoes dot the rivers and streams. Modest thatched huts line the rivers and streams. The forest is still immense and the bird life is still quite plentiful.

The water level was high for July. We actually boated all the way to ACEER lodge. Normally, you boat to Explornapo and hike the mile or so further to ACEER. When the water level is up, as it was during this trip, you transfer to a smaller boat, that takes you to the doorstep at ACEER. Because of the high water level, all varsea habitat trails were underwater. Most of the varsea birding was done by boat this year. The trails in the terra firma, while somewhat muddy, were most hikeable. We spent the majority of our walks in the terra firma.

ACEER's claim to fame is the canopy walkway, 11 treetop towers connected by canopy walkways. We spent at least two mornings, and the part of two afternoons on the walkway. Here we saw orange-cheeked parrots flyby at eye level. Dacnis, tanagers, and honeycreepers seemed close enough to touch at times. We all managed, after much work to see White-browed Purpletuft. Two big finds on the walkway were a Lanceolated Monklet, seen very well through a scope, plus the first ever known nest of a Dugand's Antwren, found by the ever observant Bret.

At ACEER, we hit the trails in earnest after all sorts of ant things. As luck would have it, the ant swarms were few and far between. Just before leaving Yanamono, we encountered one forming within minutes of us having to depart. We repeated the same experience at ACEER; however, since we planned to walk to Explornapo Camp, we had more time to spend with the swarm. Here I saw my first White-plumed and Hairy-crested Antbirds. Some folks just went nuts when the Red-winged Bare-eyes appreared, male and female. But no ground cuckoo, I am sad to say.

Our time at Explornapo was spent similarly to that at ACEER. However, instead of going up on the canopy walkway - we took several boat trips to river islands and varsea habitat. A most memorable boat ride, took us to a small island village. From a birding perspective, I found it amazing we all got on Black-banded Crake. Our guides took us 5 at a time, into a small viewing area for a look at the birds crossing an opening in the tall grass. We all saw the birds amazingly well. While waiting, some local kids kept us company. One enterprising woman brought a bag full of items she made. She sold her items for next to nothing and I imagine she made enough money to feed her family for several days.

At Explornapo, we encountered our most impressive ant swarm. In addition to the birds seen previously, it included several Black-spotted Bare-eyes and a White-chinned Woodcreeper seen by some, but not me.

The trip ended with one last night in Iquitos and one final morning birding the white sand forest. Then back to Lima, and a Lan Chile red-eye flight direct to Los Angeles.

What follows are some highlights as I reviewed my checklist today. Of course, I didn't see all birds seen by the tour. However, I did see more than I expected.

• In all, we heard 7 tinamous. While a couple called close a few times, we never managed a sighting.

• Our boat trip to varsea habitat netted us a 5-vulture day, along with a 6 swift day. Plumbeous and Swallowtail Kites kettled in large numbers feeding on perhaps dragon flies. We watched for several minutes as one after another would hesitate in the air, and grab something with their talons and take it to their mouths to feed. The trip failed to get us a Orange-eyed Flycatcher. However, we had stunning views of Wire-tailed Manakin, plus several cool ant things like Silvered Antbird and White-shouldered Antbird.

• Four potoos. Experiencing the second only recorded sighting of White-winged Potoo in Peru. Seeing Long-tailed Potoo on a nest. Getting my fourth life potoo, Common Potoo - called in by Bret. It was also Mike San Miguel's life Common Potoo - his fourth potoo as well.

• On one boat ride from Yanamona Lodge we had a 5-kingfisher day. Gads of Rufous and Green Kingfishers around Explornapo.

• Twelve puffbirds total, including Lanceolated Monklet, Rusty-breasted Nunlet, and Collared Puffbird.

• Pavonine Quetzal.

• Hearing 6 trogons in one day.

• 13 woodpecker species. 14 woodcreeper species.

• 3 Horneros, Parker’s Spinetail, Red-and-white Spinetail (Certhiaxix Hutelina)

• ANT THINGS - I saw 45, and heard 4 more. Some of which were Black Bushbird, Dugand's Antwren, Ancient Antwren, Black-spotted and Reddish-wing Bare-eyes.

• Two favorite birds among many: Chestnut-belted Gnateater and Rusty-belted Tapaculo.

• Too many flycatchers to mention. Orange-eye a complete miss.

• Five thrushes including Lawrences and Haxwells.

• Joseph del Hoyo, editor of Handbook of the Birds of the World, getting his 5000th bird with a Pearly-breasted Conebill.

• Failing to see the Musician Wren, while it encircled me with its song.

• Gads of tanagers -- perhaps the most gaudy in my opinion being Paradise and Masked-crimson.

• Birding the new river island near Iquitos. We easily saw Lesser Hornero, White-bellied Spinetail, Parker's Spinetail, Black-and-white Antbird, River Tyrannulet, Lesser Wagtail-tryrant, Fuscous Flycatcher, Riverside Tyrant, Little-brown Tyrant, and Large Elaenia all within a very short time.

• A night boat ride, with an extraordinarily clear night. Seeing the southern cross displayed in the backdrop of more stars than I can ever remember seeing at once. Shooting stars seen by all to the backdrop of the Amazonia night chorus.

• Seeing the mighty Amazon.